Press
NICOLA THOMIS of The Sniff Website named SCORPIO RISING her pick for Best Perfume of 2022 for Fragrantica, describing it as "...dry, sexy, intoxicating. The hook which keeps me coming back to this fragrance is the compelling and addictive smokiness which hovers enticingly, beckoning you closer. It's not clear if you are being called towards something dangerous or delightful, however, and the tension that causes is wonderfully intoxicating. The scent has been a highlight of the perfume landscape for me this year and sets a very high benchmark for spicy fragrances going forward."
MATVEY YUDOV picked it as one of his Top Perfume Launches of 2022 for Fragrantica, describing SCORPIO RISING as "monumental."
ADAM FORZIATI named SCORPIO RISING as one of his Top Perfume Launches of 2022 for Fragrantica, asking, "What else places [Scorpio Rising] on such a high pedestal for me, and for the other Fragrantica editors who placed on their best of 2022 lists? My bet is the subdued smoky quality – nothing acrid about it; more of a soft, layered blanket that’s seen its share of whiskey and cigar nights than standing next to a smoker. Incense, smoke, and a complex array of spices and musk…what’s not to love?"
Nez, La Revue Olfactive (May 2022)
“Niche and Confidences: Barbara Herman (Eris Parfums)”
“How did you come up with your first creations?
I wanted the fragrances to be bold and always have a twist. I had in mind this quote by Edgar Allan Poe: “There is no exquisite beauty without some strangeness in the proportion.” And it was very clear to me that I needed to have at least one with animalic notes…”
The entire interview is here
Profumiscribe (April 2022)
“Splendid Allure and a Presence of Wilder Sorcery: Scorpio Rising 2022 and Green Spell 2021”
“SCORPIO RISING...is a triumphant invocation of Scorpionic sorcery…
GREEN SPELL: "... myriad hues of green, nuanced in a wash of watercolour transparency...A scent of the new emergence, of fecund delicacy, ripe and potent and the entwining of roots in earth soft embrace…
The spell is cast- inhale……." — Danu Seith-Fyr
Full article here.
Basenotes (March 2022)
“The 16th Basenotes Perfume Awards”
ERIS PARFUMS was voted “Best Independent Perfume House” by Basetnotes readers in their 16th annual Basenotes Perfume Awards. Find out other winners and categories here.
Fragrantica (February 2022)
“Scorpio Rising by ERIS”
“Since I first smelled it, Scorpio RIsing became my favorite of the ERIS line. I appreciate its intricate complexity and smooth and harmonious monolithic structure…Scorpio Rising is a smooth spicy, woody, smoky, leather perfume. …[it] slowly unrolls its layers according to their natural volatility, and they melt into each other having so much in common and making the perfume deeper and richer…However, do not get deceived by its seeming lightness, it has a powerful sillage, and gets dryer and darker with time…” - Elena Knezevic
ÇaFleureBon (February 2022)
“ Eris Parfums SCORPIO RISING”
Basenotes (June 2021)
“ Eris Parfums' Founder Barbara Herman on the Enduring Power of Scented Seduction”
”Barbara Herman’s olfactory aesthetic is unapologetically glamourous. Basenotes last spoke to her in 2012, when she was blogging under Yesterday’s Perfume and several months shy of the release of Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume, an ode to fragrance in all its gender-bending, norm-defying glory. Today, she has put her love of all things olfactory into physical form with Eris Parfums. Despite the brand name being derived from the Greek goddess of chaos, each scent is a beautifully blended microcosm of sensuality and depth. Created with master provocateur Antoine Lie, the brand launched in 2016…” - Carla Seipp
Full article here.
Fragrantica (March 2021)
“ Need To Know Line Reviews: Eris Parfums – Discord, Beauty, and Beasts”
”Much of Eris’ releases could be described in one word: unapologetic. They seem to use materials you don’t commonly find, aren’t scared of scandalous sensuality, aren’t afraid to turn heads, and alternately smell not of this time, but perfectly in place…
Sometimes you can smell a perfume and know for certain that the hands that made it knew exactly how each material behaves - how every sparkle, flare, and fade was completely intentional. This is definitely the case with Antoine Lie.”
Full review here.
Colognoisseur (January 2021)
“Eris Parfums Green Spell: A Gargantuan Green”
“I have always wanted a perfume that didn’t pull the green in favor of florals. I wanted one which just kept getting greener and greener…a gargantuan green. Green Spell is what I wanted.
It begins with a blast of galbanum I luxuriated in. There is a duality of raw vegetation and emerald-like verdancy…At every turn, another source of green adding a new layer. At the end, a bit of ambroxan provides a woody frame for this green olfactory tapestry.”
Full review here.
Notetaking Blog: Parfuming the Senses (January 2021)
“Green Spell: An Earthly Catharsis”
"[A] hyperrealistic dive into fresh green leaves, fruits, and other growth. It’s intense, hence the spell it puts you under...Pure spring and summer bottled so accurately, a green elixir..."
Full review here.
ÇaFleureBon (January 2021)
“Green Spell: Warding Off the Cold”
"Green Spell by ERIS PARFUMS opens with a crush of green growing things, wildly scrabbling at cracks and fissures to climb higher and open more leaves to the sun...After this initial blast of dense fig leaf and galbanum greenery, Green Spell shifts and softens as though caught and dispersed by a bright breeze.
It transforms into a more transparent wash of fresh green as it moves closer to the skin...In the depths of winter, when the ground freezes and the days are short; when the fir balsam scent of holiday season has faded; when the colder days loom ahead into unbroken weeks without thaw; when forced air heat dries and deadens scent—this is when the yearning for spring takes root...ERIS PARFUMS Green Spell offers a reprieve—a reminder that spring is not that far off."
Full review here.
Persolaise (December 2020)
“Best Perfumes of 2020: A Time for Seeking Beauty”
”You think you don’t need another ultra-green descendant of Chanel No. 19 until you smell Green Spell. With her impeccable taste – and the talents of Lie – brand founder Barbara Herman has fashioned a suitably witchy essay on all things viridescent, from tomato leaf, to fig and violet leaf, with, of course, a hefty dose of galbanum right in the middle of everything. Potent stuff.”
Link here.
Perfume Society: The Scented Letter (Dec. 2020)
“Latest Launches: Green Spell by ERIS”
"Living up to its green promise, vibrant Italian mandarin is squeezed over succulent blackcurrant absolute, with Iranian galbanum and Egyptian violet leaf evoking florist's shop snapped stalks and sap-drenched blooms. Dusky narcissus and fig leaf drape the shadowy base, and tomato leaf shines with photorealistic phosphorescence." - Suzy Nightingale in The Scented Letter
Full review here.
I Sniff Before I Sleep (October 2020)
“ Eris Parfums Mxxx.”
“Mxxx. is a more carnal and enticing interpretation of…Mx., named after the gender-neutral title used instead of ‘Ms.’ or 'Mr.’ and known for its spicy, woody, animalic character.
[It] combines the dark marine character of ambergris with the most luscious bitter cacao, the smoothest vanilla, and the loveliest blend of spices and other animalic notes…
In cooler weather, the salty ambergris has a subtle camphoric undertone. In the summer heat, the composition becomes sweeter, but is equally enveloping, sumptuous, and sexy without being overpowering. This alluring fragrance is salty and sweet, warm and cool, with hints that recall lightly flushed human skin.”
Full review here.
Fragrantica (September 2020)
“Under the Green Spell of Eris Parfums”
"The fragrance immediately evokes the forceful green accords of old classics, however it doesn't resemble any single one, neither does it continue in that direction. It was merely a hat tip, after which the fragrance shows off its perfectly modern, spacious, transparent construction...
Although each of the ingredients smells quite natural, the perfume doesn't imitate nature...it rather refers to its evergreen affirmative spirit. It is, first of all, a perfume, a very elegant one..."
Full review here.
Hypebeast (September 2020)
“Bottling Masculinity: Understanding Men’s Scents from Le Male to Axe”
“When you really dig into the history of gender and perfume, whether it’s men’s perfumes or women’s, it’s a history of gender fluidity no matter where you look,” explains Barbara Herman, author of Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume and founder of ERIS PARFUMS.“
Full article here.
Persolaise (June 2020)
“Eris Ma Bête, Belle de Jour, Mx. and Night Flower Review”
"And as you close your eyes, you feel a hand brush against the small of your naked back. An especially physical moment in a collection that is full of skin-tingling excitement. If you haven’t done so already, do make the effort to seek it out."
Full review here.
A Bottled Rose (March 2020)
"Mxxx. by ERIS PARFUMS”
“Featuring the unholy trinity of castoreum, hyraceum and ambergris, you’d be forgiven for thinking this would be eye-wateringly sexual. It’s not quite. Somehow Lie has kept these beasts on a leash. It is more slinky and overtly suggestive than outright skanky.”
Full review here.
Stephan Matthews (March 2020)
"Ma Bête by ERIS PARFUMS”
“[E]very so often a brand comes along that sets pulses and temperatures racing. It’s not that it taps into a trend, it’s more that it reignites a passion that has become dormant. Well crafted, exquisitely packaged, with a style that is unequalled in modern perfumery. I’m talking about Ma Bête from Eris Parfums…
The fragrance opens with a hit of animal sensuality, and that’s not surprising as it contains 50% animalic accord. These notes of civet and castoreum anchor the fragrance from the outset and make it intoxicating. A bright aldehyde backed neroli pierces the richness before another accord of soft animal fur comes through…Perfection is hard to attain, but you’ll find it in Ma Bête.”
Full review here.
Take One Thing Off (Feb. 2020)
"Eris Parfums Mxxx.”
“The innovation here, with Mxxx., is that Barbara Herman and her perfumer for Eris Parfums, Antoine Lie, decided to up the stakes by adding a large dose of 7% natural ambergris tincture, cacao from Trinidad, and hyraceum tincture to the formula. The difference this has made to the bones of the perfume is striking...
In its total effect, Mxxx. still smells like sandalwood to me, but a much earthier, more aromatic version than the milky ‘saffron orange’ sweetness of the original [Mx.]. The butter-cacao undertone here is unctuous but roughened with a kitten’s lick of grey sea salt that catches at your throat and stops the scent from smelling overtly gourmand. The incense, subtle spices, and the musky cedarwood give the scent a dry, gauzy texture, like ash from a wood fire blown into the air."
Full review here.
ÇaFleureBon (Dec. 2019)
"Best Fragrances of 2019”
“Eris Parfums Mxxx. (Antoine Lie): Otherworldly, quietly intense, softly animalic, Mxxx. from Eris Parfums is one of the best and most unusual perfumes of the year. Using an extravagant amount of pure, aged ambergris and a top-end cacao, Mxxx. brings a deep sensuality to genderfluid perfumery. The smell of slept-in skin mingles with that extraordinary, bitter cacao, punches of spice and resins that glow and retreat. Mxxx. is dislocatingly stunning.” - Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor, ÇaFleureBon
Full review here.
Now Smell This (Dec. 2019)
"Eris Parfums Mxxx. - Fragrance Review”
“Perfumer Antoine Lie developed Mxxx. Extrait de Parfum. Its notes include Madagascan blue ginger, mace, saffron, Ethiopian olibanum, pink peppercorn, Trinidad cacao, Virginia cedarwood, sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, Indonesian patchouli, benzoin, castoreum, 7% natural ambergris, Pierre d’Afrique and Madagascan green vanilla…The result is a dense, somewhat linear fragrance with a warm, woody, velvet-edged feel. At first, its wood has an almost mineral sheen, earthy, a little bit animalic, but not skanky. No body odor or draft from the porta-potty here.
Then Mxxx. picks up hints of nuts and sweetens, but it’s not not sharp-sweet, but sweet like sandalwood. Every once in a while I think I smell cinnamon or old fur coat, then it vanishes. The fragrance keeps a tight harmony of wood, amber, cocoa and a little bit of wet rock until it fades to nose-against-forearm level, about six hours later on my skin…
To me, Mxxx. isn’t about flash and show. It’s not the cleverly cut Japanese dress with the reverse bustle. It’s the simple rectangle of a generous scarf intricately crafted from the best wool, woven by skilled hands. Its surprises and rewards are for you, not the crowd.”
Full review here.
Colognoisseur (Dec. 2019)
"Eris Parfums Mxxx. - Genuine Triple-X"
"[ERIS] Mxxx. captures what I would consider a genuine triple-x effect. It uses unique ingredients which add a sensuality to what was already a great perfume in Mx....
To that end they sourced three new ingredients they wanted to add to the existing structure of Mx. The first is an authentic tincture of ambergris...They also added African Stone…The third is a Trinidad Cacao which is being used for the first time in this perfume...I think of each of these as an 'x' combining to form the 'xxx.'
[Mxxx. reveals] "a creative team interested in making something for the true perfume aficionado; one 'x' at a time."
Full review here.
ÇaFleureBon (Dec. 2019)
"Eris Parfums Mxxx. Review (Antoine Lie)"
"At the center of the fragrance is the ambergris, which emerges like a powerful, silent wave that gathers force before it breaks. This is unlike any approximate aroma chemical I’ve encountered; rich, saline, redolent of heated skin otherworldly. A tickle of warm ginger washes in beneath it, and an ancient smell of ash. Then that extraordinary cacao. I’ve encountered this aroma only when biting into the bitterest, highest grade bitter chocolate. I’m not sure I’ve ever encountered a perfume whose notes so suddenly emerge, fully realized, as they do in Mxxx. The notes glow and retreat, as if spotlighted on a rotating jeweler’s velvet.”
Full review here.
The Perfume Society (Dec. 2019)
"Fragrant Reads: Scent and Subversion"
“Having had the pleasure of sampling each of the (ERIS) fragrances, I can confirm that those with a penchant for vintage will get a real kick out of these. My favourite has to be Ma Bête – ‘(My Beast) caresses you with the suggestiveness of perfumed fur. A collision of the floral and the animal, MA BÊTE combines a regal Tunisian Neroli with spices and a 50 percent overdose of Antoine Lie’s own animalic cocktail.’ ‘‘Ma Bête is a fierce beast with raunchy elegance.’ – Antoine Lie
Whether reading about delightfully subversive scents or wanting to douse yourself in their forbidden essence, this season is an excellent time to slip into your most fabulous gown and exude dangerous glamour, don’t you think?”
Full review here.
Shondaland (Sept. 2018)
"What Does ‘Mx.’ Smell Like?"
"Unisex fragrances tend to be very citrusy and clean — neutral…[W]e think of florals as feminine. We think of woodsy scents as masculine. So I wanted to create something that mixed all of those references. It has a name that references gender fluidity and also ingredients that reference the mix of conventionally feminine and masculine accords.”
Full article with interview available here.
LA BOX AUPARFUM #8 (March 2018)
"If Shalimar had plunged into a vat of tonka bean absolute before joining Poison on the scent witches' Sabbath, their love child would no doubt resemble Night Flower by Antoine Lie and Barbara Herman... Tuberose with leather petals, spiky pistils loaded with cinnamon, planted in the soil of patchouli, Night Flower spreads the poisonous charm of Eva Green, the devil's fiancée in Penny Dreadful."
ERIS PARFUMS Night Flower was chosen by the editorial board of AuParfum.com to be one of four perfumes in its subscription-only perfume box, edition #8.
Descriptions and reviews of Night Flower by creative director Barbara Herman, by writer Denyse Beaulieu, and by subscribers can be viewed here.
D2 MAGAZINE (March 2018)
"In our deodorized age, we have ceased to appreciate imperfect, bodily, deeply human smells. Perfume entrepreneur Barbara Herman challenges convention and turns away from clean."
Full article and interview with ERIS PARFUMS founder Barbara Herman in Norwegian here.
ELLE ITALIA (Feb. 2018)
"Rivoluzione Genderfluid"
" 'Let's remember that a beautiful fragrance has no gender,' says Barbara Herman, blogger and founder of Eris Parfums. Mx. has a name that unleashes the most fluid freedom and is a voluptuous fragrance with an animalic note."
THE FINANCIAL TIMES (Feb. 2018)
"How to Spend It: The Perfumer's Guide to Benzoin"
"Benzoin has a natural affinity with other sweet and rich notes like vanilla, balsams, leather and tonka beans, but it has a radiant quality that sets it apart. For instance, in Mx. by Eris Parfums...benzoin is folded into a chypre vignette of sandalwood, patchouli. vetiver and saffron to create a luminous effect." -- Victoria Frolova
Full article available here.
PERSEFUME (Feb. 2018)
"Persefume Awards 2017"
Persefume votes Mx. Eau de Parfum as one of the top "must smell" releases of 2017!
Full article available here.
Megan In Sainte Maxime (Jan. 2018)
"Favourite Perfumes 2017: Mx. by Eris Parfums"
"Mx. is from Barbara Herman’s excellent line of vintage hued creations. This time around though we’re talking a milky, woody perfume lightly spiced with a right about now feel. This is a highly wearable, perfect for any occasion perfume with a deliciously loved up feel that I think we could all do with right now." - Megan Paki
Full article available here and an interview with ERIS PARFUMS founder Barbara Herman available here.
Colognoisseur: Best of 2017 (Dec. 2017)
"Mx. by ERIS PARFUMS"
"Creative director Barbara Herman with perfumer Antoine Lie continue their successful collaboration with a perfume that shows unisex does not mean boring." - Mark Behnke
Full article available here.
Megan In Sainte Maxime (Dec. 2017)
"Mx. from Eris Parfums: Right About Now"
"I’m a sucker for a bit of ginger in a perfume and in Mx. there’s a lovely warm take with a peppery fizz. Woods dominate and the creamy sandalwood dances on top of the cedar and a rather nutty vetiver that bring more depth, playing well against each other...The animalic element is dialled down in Mx. compared to the more growly Ma Bête, so if you’re a little worried about the more beastly side than you will have no problem here. The dry down is delectably cosy as it fades, that while not identical to Lie’s White from Puredistance, shares a flourish that is reminiscent of that cloud like scent.
To sum up Mx. smells like milky woods, sprinkled with a touch of spice, a wash of cocoa and a general loved up, cosy feel that most definitely hits the spot." - Megan Paki
Full article available here.
L'Officiel Malaysia (Dec. 2017)
"Perfume Genius"
"Founded in 2014 by vintage perfume collector and author, Barbara Herman, ERIS Parfums is based on the on-going collaboration between founder and the world-renowned French perfumer Antoine Lie, the nose behind such scents as Armani Code and Comme des Garçons Wonderwood. Together, they have created a niche line of four fragrances...the most recent being the genderfluid Mx.
...Eris Parfums' latest scent disrupts the notion of how unisex perfumes must either be 'clean,' or fall back on the more 'masculine' notes. As a fragrance, as a message, Mx. fits perfectly in line with a label determined to blur the boundaries of perfumery." — Brent Taalur Ramsey
The Perfume Society (Dec. 2017)
"The Scented Letter: Christmas Edition"
"[T]his scent is as unisex as the name implies — but with a distinctly sizzling sexiness...Tingling ginger, saffron and vetiver are liberally sprinkled with black pepper, then decadently swirled into a creamy cuddle of cedar and sandalwood. With seriously addictive notes of cacao, brown sugar-like benzoin, and an animalic waft of castoreum, it's a throaty purr that's hard to resist." - Suzy Nightingale
Full PDF newsletter available here.
EAUMG (Nov. 2017)
"ERIS Mx. Perfume Review "
"Mx. feels really 'right now'...It checks the boxes of what a lot of people want in their niche perfume – woods, sweetness, musk and comfort...Mx. smells minimalist, fashionable and niche but also like a comforting hug. And isn’t that appealing for the times?" - Victoria Jent
Full article available here.
Colognoisseur (Dec. 2017)
"Eris Parfums Mx. - Fluid Dynamics"
"You may be thinking 'Okay, but we’ve had unisex fragrances for a long time now.' However, Mx. rebels against the idea – prevalent in the mainstream at least – that gender-neutral perfumes have to be clean (read asexual) or lean masculine in style (presumably so as not to scare off the fellas). In sharp contrast to the cool and fresh unisex style that dates back to CK One, Mx. is warm and inviting...
Mx. seeks to blur the gender boundaries and the whole feel of the fragrance is soft focus. It’s someone coming home late at night, lighting a fire and wrapping themselves in a faux fur blanket after an indulgent evening of excess."
Full article available here.
WALLPAPER MAGAZINE (Oct. 2017):
"On the scent: five of the finest olfactory delights from Pitti Fragranze"
For a few days every September, a former railway station in Florence becomes the centre of the fragrance world, as perfumers, distributors and buyers from as far afield as Australia and Japan converge on the Stazione Leopolda for the annual Pitti Fragranze fair. With 200 brands – mainly smaller independents – in attendance, this year’s fair attracted around 2,200 buyers from more than 50 countries. In an increasingly saturated market, it’s hard for new brands to distinguish themselves using design or concepts, so those that do are definitely worth looking at. Here, we round up five of our favourites from this year’s fair.
Full article available here.
TAKE ONE THING OFF (Oct. 2017):
"Eris Parfums Mx."
On ERIS PARFUMS new fragrance Mx.:
"Given that the whole idea behind Mx is its gender fluidity, the sweet, creamy components of the perfume are immediately balanced out by a brusque, more aromatic side. This comes in the form of Australian sandalwood, its sturdy, dry character emphasized by a musky cedarwood. Australian sandalwood can be sour and piney, but not here – in Mx, it is merely handsome in a rough-hewn way, the perfect counterbalance to the creamy orange and spice.
There are no flowers here, nothing powdery or dated: simply that ancient lure of the dry and creamy push-pull of sandalwood. If men are handsome and women are pretty, then we might call Mx good-looking and leave it at that. Gender-wise, there is truly nothing here to tug it in one direction or the other.
...Mx is fantastic work and well worth investing in if you love rugged sandalwood orientals...Or, indeed, if you just love beautiful, well-made perfumes."
Full review available here.